Saturday 6 December 2014

Iceland



The last leg of my long-journey-home was the in only mid-way point between me and Winnie. In December I landed on the awesome island of Iceland, near Ireland (not to confuse you!). When I was looking for flights home from Toronto, I saw that Icelandair were offering a great price, but with a 2 hour stop-over in Reykjavik. I then thought, why not turn 2 hours into 6 days?! 

Almost every person I've told about Iceland, or who have seen our pictures say 'wow that's so cool. I really want to go there' or 'I've always wanted to visit Iceland'. Well, it's a 2.5 hour flight from UK and 5 from Canada, is full of breathtaking natural beauty, a clean, welcoming and English-friendly population and fantastic food, so my question is 'what's stopping you?'

Iceland is all kinds of amazing, but that comes at a price! We soon discovered that the food here is expensive! I decided not to have breakfast in the airport as I didn't want to take out a bank loan, so we found the car rental place and were on our way. Renting a car in Iceland is a MUST unless you plan on staying in only Reykjavik or going on bus tours (whyyyyyyy?!?!). I pre-booked ours online with Thrifty for €210 for 6 days, which I thought was decent and was the cheapest I found. We got a brand new Ford Fiesta automatic. The public transport isn't great here and if you want to get to numerous gorgeous attractions in one day, you'll need your own runner. Also, if you an unlocked phone, click here. We picked up a Síminn SIM card from the shop in the airport and topped it up from there. It was extremely useful to have access to Google Maps and the internet when driving around. 

Another thing about Iceland that is cool is that the time of year that you visit will probably dictate what type of vacation you'll have. Winnie's friend visited Iceland about 2 months before us and sent us photos of green landscapes, crisp autumn fields and approachable waterfalls. When we were there, we could hardly see the road, were surrounded by snow and felt like we were in another dimension. 





The first place we had decided to visit was the popular Blue Lagoon. This is a pretty luxurious volcanic thermal pool and spa, and a must for any trip here. We'd opted for the package that gives you lunch and dressing-gown, free drink and face mask (not that I needed it, eh?). The outside temperature was 0-2°c but the water was an awesome 37-39°c. It's very relaxing and quiet. I advise you to book online first to avoid queuing for tickets. We entered at 10am and booked lunch at 12. We left around 2:30pm. This was ideal for our first day as we arrived at 7am, so we kept ourselves busy and pampered until we could check in to our hostel. 

Everyone's ears are cold but bodies are toasty :)


Facemask and smoothie included



Because of Iceland's geographical location, in December we got about 5 hours of daylight. Sunrise was around 11am and sunset was around 4pm. It is quite light before and after though. We had to remember this when planning an itinerary. In summer you could probably spend all day exploring, in winter you'll get 5-6 hours. Winter time however, is the best time to see the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights. You can check the 'forecast' for your chances to see the phenomenon here (www.en.vedur.is)

The hostel we stayed in was The Capital-inn which was very clean, well equipped and in a good location. It isn't in the centre of the capital but easily accessible with a car and a good hub to get onto the roads. The first night was spent driving around and 'chasing' the lights. As I drove toward Keflavik Winnie was looking at the sky and we soon found a hint of colour. Only using my camera phone I managed to get a shot, but it didn't do the sight justice. It was really great to see and cool to see how it moves. We were to get better pictures later in the trip.



Another hugely popular, and recommended by me, activity is the 'Golden Circle'. This consists of a visit to 3-4 places of interest which are not-too-far from Reykjavik, so it's is easily doable within 1 day.

  • The first stop is in Þingvellir (Thingvillir) national Park. The road to the park provides visitors with a wonderful scenic view of the lake and surrounding areas, whereas the place itself is very unique. It is one of the only places in the world where 2 tectonic/continental plates meet above land. So you can actaully walk up a path between the North American and Eurasian continental plates.

Icelandic flag flies within Thingvillir



Winnie is standing in Europe and looking down the gap to North America

Middle ground - between N. America and Europe
  • Then on to Geysir to see Strokkur, a natural geyser which shoots hot water and steam high into the air every 6-8 minutes. It's really cool to see. The place was really eerie when we visited because it was below freezing so all the underground volcanic water was producing steam which was being released up into the air. It looked like another planet at times and was wonderful to experience! 
Sunrise at Geysir

Santa on his pre-season vacation

Ready, steady....

Go!


  • The final stop was at Gullfoss (Golden Falls), a wonderful double waterfall that is both wide and powerful. You can walk up the cliff to get a birds-eye view of the falls, or walk down the path to where the water falls into the river below. Each offers an excellent view (and near death experiences in icy conditions)!






We wanted to make sure that we explored Iceland didn't stick to Reykjavík. We headed south down Route 1 (a main road that goes all around Iceland) to Vík and stopped off on the way to see Seljalandsfoss. This is a popular waterfall which you can walk behind. As the weather was freezing cold the spray from the water had formed icicles and black ice on the steps up beside the waterfall. This looked both beautiful and dangerous. But you know me, I laugh in the face of danger....






It actually took me about 10 minutes to climb these steps!

The road between Reykjavik and Vik took us through some really cool landscapes which changed from icy desert to sheer cliff edges. For the whole journey, Winne and I were in awe of the wonderful landscape. On arrival into Vík we climbed the snowy and icy hill in our car to the Vík Hostel. This hostel was in a superb location on the hill, near the church and gave you wonderful views of the town and coastline. The hostel was very eco-friendly and clean. We shared a room with another Canadian and a Slovenian woman who was really friendly.
The town is really small and quaint and is the most convenient location to visit the black beach and see the black rock formations which make this town a popular tourist spot. 


View from the hostel.

In the next day, we decided to press on along Route 1 and make our way to 
Fáskrúðsfjörður (try saying that when you've had a beer), one of the easternmost settlements in Iceland. It's situated in the fjords of the east of the island. I had read that an old French hospotal had been converted into a hotel out there and I thought it'd be pretty cool to stay there. I was right. The drive there was long and windy but beautiful. We arrived when it was dark (which could have been any time from 4pm onwards) but as we approached the final fjord we got a wonderful view of the aurora borealis.


In fact, the whole journey here had been jaw-droppingly beautiful. The majority of the time we were the only car on the road. There were vast plains of snow-covered volcanic rock, then strikingly fierce mountain ranges. Volcanoes and seismic activity can often bring devastation to many lives, yet Iceland was a welcome example of how Mother Nature can produce such beauty and wonder. 



Some part of some old damaged bridge, looks cool in the surroundings.
En route we stopped off at Skaftafellsjökull, one of Iceland's many glaciers. It you could see the light blue glacier wedged between two dark-rock mountains. It was like being on the moon. 



We had hoped to make it onto Mýrdalsjökull glacier. There are companies that arrange hikes onto 
the glacier and up towards the waterfall, but it was way too snowy for us to get
there. The car got us to the car park, just. But there was noone there,
and I suppose it was out of season. Anyway, we made it to Fáskrúðsfjörður and
found the hotel-come-former french hospital, see Fosshotel Eastfjords
The hotel was warm, welcoming and comfortable. The best thing
though has to be the view from our widow and the back of the hotel.
The restaurant downstairs served some great fish and chips, too!




The east fjords was as far away from the capital as we had time to go, so we started to make our way back towards Vík. The weather on this drive was amazing... amazingly bad! The weather here was even reported in the UK media and described as a 'weather bomb'. The winds were ridiculously strong and it was blowing snow form the mountains, across the plains, past the roads towards the coast. We had to drive really slowly and carefully and at times we couldn't see past the bonnet/hood of the car. It was very scary. 

There was a temporary lull in the wind which allowed us to visit another glacier just before the sun went down. We got some good pictures at Jökulsárlón before the wind started back up again and forced us to hit the road and get back to Vík. 
Jökullsárlón glacier pool

I just had to
Just outside Vík we drove past a man whose car had been blown off the road and down into a ditch. Being the good people that we are, we stopped to see if we could help. I think he was Swedish and he didn't speak English or Icelandic, so I used our phone to call 112 and get some help for him and waited until the emergency services arrived. Arriving back at Vík and back to the lovely hostel we were happy to have made it back in one piece. 

It was time to make our way back to Reykjavik. This day was much better than the previous, but it was still quite windy. We visited the famous black beach of Vík and went to see the rock formations. The place is no doubt interesting, but we found it quite difficult to see as the black basalt 'sand' was being blown all over by the wind.




Heading back north towards the capital, we passed Skogarfoss; another waterfall which is popular with tourists. Because of the wind, this was also difficult to get close to but as it was situated pretty close to the road, it wasn't much of a detour so we decided to take a look.

Picture taken of Skogarfoss as I was getting drenched



After arriving back at the hostel in Reykjavik, we dropped off our begs then made our way into the city centre. I wasn't going to leave Iceland without visiting the spooky Hallgrímskirkja , a uniquely-shaped church in the centre. I wasn't disappointed and loved photographing both the inside and outside of the church.

Hallgrímskirkja


The rest of the evening was spent wandering around the city and getting some food. Also preparing myself mentally for the next day which would be my first day back in England since August 2012. We had an amazing time in Iceland, we both definitely want to go back. It's a highly underrated place with a unique almost-Vikingesque culture which is accepting, rich and welcoming. I have seen more and more people mentioning Iceland in the past year and I'm hoping the country can benefit from increased tourism without losing it's sense of 'not many people come here' kind of feeling. 

GO THERE!!!! 

Sunday 12 October 2014

Trek to Everest Base Camp

"Why am I doing this?", 

"I'm so tired, I wanna stop", 

"Who's idea was this?",  

"Are we there yet?" 


These are thoughts that have crossed my mind in the last 12 days. Trekking to Everest Base Camp is an amazing, breathtaking, once-in-a-lifetime experience that not everyone will encounter, but it's quite a tough one! 

Before arriving, I'd read blogs and talked to tour companies and friends to try to get an idea about what to take, how to get there, how long to plan for, what to budget etc. So I'm going to list and describe my experience, which is by no means 'the definitive answer'. 

I will say now that we did it with no guide, and no porter (we carried our own bags). I wanted to 'accept the EBC challenge' and just kinda felt that if someone else carried my bags for me, I would feel like I'd cheated. But that's just my gut feeling. I'll briefly describe the packing list, itinerary and budget. Also, we started on 1st Oct 2014 which is the very beginning of peak season and may have affected prices. 

The packing list:
In my 50L backpack I packed the following:

* Good hiking boots (ok, not in my bag, but on my feet) 
* a sleeping bag (4 season)
* hiking poles (save your knees!) 
* a down jacket (thin one) that folds up
* a rain/wind-proof jacket
* waterproof pants to go over hiking pants 
* a travel towel (quick drying)
* a fleece jumper/sweater
* pair of track pants/joggers
* pair of hiking pants (the ones that zip off and make shorts)
* a short sleeve nylon shirt
* a long sleeve nylon shirt
* a thermal long sleeve top
* thermal pants/long johns 
* 3 pairs of socks
* 3 pairs of boxers 
* flip flops (for the night time in lodges) 
* baby wipes 
* toilet paper (x2) 
* toothbrush & toothpaste 
* head torch (with batteries) 
* waterproof cover for backpack 
* neck scarf/face scarf 
* sunglasses 
* wooly hat
* gloves (wind resistant, not fleece) 
* pack of tea bags 
* selection of chocolates/granola bars
* medical pack
* 1L water bottle 
* water purification tablets 
* Diamox tablets (for AMS) 
* sun cream 
* money 
* phone/charger 
* deck of playing cards 


What I wish I'd have packed: 
Cup-a-soup style sachets 
Sachets of hot chocolate
Some packets of noodles/soups.
A book (rest days can be boring)  

Paying for 'a cup of boiling water' is cheaper than buying drinks and soups, usually between 30-50 rupees. Also, a good idea is to bring plastic bags to keep things separate within your bag (night clothes and trekking clothes etc.) and they also act as waterproof insulation should your bag get wet! 

Our Itinerary: 

Day 1-
We flew to Lukla from Kathmandu. We flew with Tara Air at 8:30am and landed around 45 minutes later. We trekked to Monju which took us around 5-6 hours. Many itineraries suggest staying in Phakding but we carried on to Monju and the next day were really glad we had, as we had a head start on our trek to Namche Bazar. 

We stayed at Monju Guest House which I'd recommend. 



Day 2- 
Hiked to Namche Bazar which took around 4 hours. We were glad to have around a 2 hour head-start on the 'Phakding itineraries' as the climb to Namche isn't easy! Our knees were glad to arrive!! 

Stayed in Khumbu Lodge, and again would really recommend it.




Day 3- 
Acclimatisationim day in Namche. These are sometimes called 'rest days', but you shouldn't rest. We hiked to the Everest View Hotel for a view of Everest and a nice club sandwich. Then hiked back down and slept again in Namche. Would recommend Danphe's Bar for a beer and a game of pool :) 

Stayed at Khumbu Lodge again. 




Day 4- 
Hiked to Deboche (around 6.5 hours). Deboche is a smaller village around 15-20 mins past Tengboche. We were tipped off to stay here as it's at a slightly lower alitude than Tengboche helping us acclimatise. The hike wasn't too bad, apart from hiking down to the river in Phunki Tenga (Yep, that's it's actual name) then having to hike allllll the way back up again towards Tengboche. Demoralising! 

We stayed in Rivendell Lodge which was decent. 




Day 5- 
Hiked to Dingboche, taking around 4.5 hours. The hike was ok, but there was a bit that was uphill for about 40 mins which depressed us, as you're told 'after Tengboche, it's all gradual' :/ 

Stayed at Snow Lion Lodge, the first place on your left. It's great and the owner is a wonderful woman. There's also a wifi cafe about 5 mins up into the village and attached to it is a small grocery store that kept giving us discounts!! Wifi was 400rupee ($4) for 30 mins and it's not fast. I decided I didn't need it THAT much. 




Day 6- 
Acclimitisation day in Dingboche. Again, don't rest. There are a few walks you can do from here. We failed to find 'the bridge' to see the glacier lakes, so we diverted and hiked up to 'the White flag' (seen from the village) which helped us get used to the altitude. It's not a long hike. 








Day 7- 
Hiked to Lobuche, taking around 4.5 hours. Apart from a 30 minute hill of death near Dughla, the hike is really pleasant and beautiful! Be careful of accending too fast, Luboche is around 500m higher than Dingboche. Stay in Dughla for a night if you have a headache. 

Stayed at Alpine Home Inn which was ok. There are slim pickings in Lobuche but their food was good! :) 





Day 8- 
Departed Luboche at 7:30am to hike to Gorakshep (2.25 hours), then finally on to EBC! We checked into a lodge in Gorakshep and left our heavy bags there. Then made our final approach to EBC!! Round trip, it took us 4 hours, so we were really pleased, but at this altitude, even small steps and hills were killers. Definitely rested our feet that night, after a celebratory dinner!! :) 

Stayed at Gorakshea Himalaya lodge which was nice in the evening and comfortable, but the toilets were in poor hygiene (more than usual)









Day 9- 
We woke up at 5:30 to start the Kala Pathar hike at 6am. However, we got around 1/3 of the way up and decided to turn around. 2 of us weren't feeling great and the peak looked to be covered in cloud. So we decided to abandon it.  
It's funny that once you've done EBC and completed it, all you can think about is getting off the mountain. stat!
We departed Gorakshep around 8:15 and made our way down, passing Luboche after 90 minutes and then down and down eventually hitting Denboche around 5pm. Most people will tell you to stop at Periche or Dingboche, but we'd got there at 12pm so we decided to carry on. 

Stayed again at Rivendell Lodge again and the lady recognised us from before and was really warm to us. 








Day 10
Continuing in the 'get me off this mountain' theme, we woke to a nice breakfast and set off to Namche. The walk down to Phunki Tenga was gruelling but the walk back up wasn't as bad as I'd anticipated. Arrived at Namche around 5 hours after departing. Back and feet started to ache. 

What was very noticeable was the amount of people now trekking. When we started on 1st October, a lot of the time there'd just be us 4, with the occasional porter or trekker to greet 'Namaste'. This day when we arrived around Phunki Tenga, the place was swarming with people. It made all four of us thankful of having set off when we had  as the crowds kinda took the 'adventure' and authenticity out of it. 

Stayed at Khumbu Lodge again! 

This place was empty a few days earlier!

Notice the line of people waiting to get on the bridge

Day 11
Departed Namche and made our way to Lukla. The hike wasn't easy and was uphill and downhill and looong. This may have been the hardest day, mainly because our bodies were tired but our minds were pushing us to go, go, go! We arrived in Lukla around 7 hours after we departed (having stopped for lunch). 

Day 12
Woke up to some dogs barking at 5:30am (the usual for Nepal), went to the airport, watched the England vs San Marino highlights, then flew to Kathmandu. What an amazing experience that was!!! WE DID IT!!! 


We decided to treat ourselves for our last night in Kathmandu and spent the next day here... 





Budget: 
This is probably the most important factor of people's trip, but also the most flexible based on personal circumstances. This is what we paid/budgeted: 

* Flights to/from Lukla - $330 ($165 each way)
* TIMS pass (Tourist Information Management System) - $20
* Park Entry (you get this in Monjo) - $30
* our daily budget $25 (approx) ($300)

Total $680

Most Lodges (dunno why people refer to them as Tea Rooms?) charge $2 per room for the night but you must eat there for dinner and breakfast or they charge extra. Food/drink gets more expensive as you get higher, but typically (in Luboche for example), a cup of coffee is 100 rupee ($1), chicken and vegetables 990 rupee ($9.90), toilet roll 300, hot shower 400, 1 hour charging phone/camera 300. You'll know your own budget.  

NB - I didn't come equipped with all the things I needed. I got most of them from a wonderful shop called Shona's. I won't keep going on about how great they were (they were though), but Google them! I spent about $100 on equipment purchase and hire!